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Jonathan Bell

Jonathan Bell

3:38 PM on Friday, May 24, 2019   •   Edited

Warden Peak via the Perfect Guilbride Pfeiffer Route

Date of trip: June 25, 2016

This past weekend some members of the ACCVI ( and I went up Mount Warden. The climb is pretty straightforward. The book calls it 5.4 but I’d say it’s mostly 4th class terrain. Here’s a video from the more technical part of the standard route on the mountain. The scariest part of the route (crossing from the col to the gully) isn’t shown in the video.

The route isn’t without danger though. A melon-sized rock broke loose and hit Dave on the head and broke apart on his helmet. A piece then hit his hand, bending his wedding ring! When we got to the top, we noticed that Dave’s hand was turning purple! The bent ring was cutting the circulation to his finger off! We used sunscreen and managed to get the ring off.

Everything worked out, and Dave’s hands returned to their normal color. After meeting the second rope team on top, we all had a snack and took some photos.

Pretty soon, it was time to head down. I was happy to have bagged my 5th Island Qualifier!

Dave's ring after we re-bent it and pulled it off of his hand

Heading back down