+ 33
Tête Blanche North Face, 3412m
Rock Climbing Route
Details
4.56 mi
2,591 ft
A short introductory North Face with a long approach and descent.
In the summer follow the standard route from the Albert Premier Hut, as for the Aiguille du Tour. This will be a very well-travelled track with plenty of people. Leave the route to the Aiguille du Tour at the Col Superior du Tour, then head E then SE up the Trient Glacier, heading gently up to the base of your objective. Climate change has made the line rockier (it used to be a popular steep ski) and in late season it will probably be blue ice and best avoided. You can climb it pretty much anywhere, but on the least rocky part, on the R of the face, there is a vertical interval of about 120m from bergschrund to top. There are no undue technical difficulties and from the top of the face you head easily along the ridge to the summit. Descent is mellow off to the S, then W, to re-join your earlier tracks, which you follow down to the hut. In the winter and spring, with solitude guaranteed, you would more easily approach the route via the Bochard lift at the Grands Montets. From here follow the route to Rognons glacier, as for the Haute Route, then Col Passon, to access the le Tour Glacier. Descent might be best on skiers L of the le Tour Glacier, as per the standard Col Passon descent, to the lifts of le Tour. This would make a fine, long and wild day out. Written by Jon Morgan
In the summer follow the standard route from the Albert Premier Hut, as for the Aiguille du Tour. This will be a very well-travelled track with plenty of people. Leave the route to the Aiguille du Tour at the Col Superior du Tour, then head E then SE up the Trient Glacier, heading gently up to the base of your objective. Climate change has made the line rockier (it used to be a popular steep ski) and in late season it will probably be blue ice and best avoided. You can climb it pretty much anywhere, but on the least rocky part, on the R of the face, there is a vertical interval of about 120m from bergschrund to top. There are no undue technical difficulties and from the top of the face you head easily along the ridge to the summit. Descent is mellow off to the S, then W, to re-join your earlier tracks, which you follow down to the hut. In the winter and spring, with solitude guaranteed, you would more easily approach the route via the Bochard lift at the Grands Montets. From here follow the route to Rognons glacier, as for the Haute Route, then Col Passon, to access the le Tour Glacier. Descent might be best on skiers L of the le Tour Glacier, as per the standard Col Passon descent, to the lifts of le Tour. This would make a fine, long and wild day out. Written by Jon Morgan
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