The Best Rock Climbing Routes in Chamonix
Explore Rock Climbing RoutesChamonix is a unique resort, towered over by the jagged and imposing Mont Blanc, and only a short transfer away from Geneva airport.
The mountain sports capital of the world, Chamonix gets plenty of hype and deserves it all. Whether you're a skier, climber, biker or hiker, Chamonix is probably on your bucket list, and it doesn't disappoint when you finally get there. As the spiritual home of extreme skiing, Chamonix has a different aura than any other resort. The mountains are bigger, steeper and more spectacular. And the town itself is bustling, cosmopolitan, and steeped in Alpine history.
Top 29 rock climbing routes in Chamonix
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1
Approach to the Gonella Hut
Due to the large vertical interval with no lifts this side of Mont Blanc is far quieter than the French side. It is certainly more effort on the summit day, but the approach to the Gonella Hut is no longer than the approach to the highest hut on the French side....
2
Couvercle Hut Approach
Take the train from Chamonix to Montenvers at 1912m. From there take the downhill path which branches off to the R to the top of the ladders. A series of these descend ever increasing distances with glacial recession, until the moraine that leads down a rough track to the glacier itself....
3
Vallée Blanche Traverse
For the low grade alpinist, this is a great way to get into longer glacier routes. Once you've got down the Aiguille du Midi arete, the route is non-technical but you will need to be able to route find through glaciated terrain and, if things don't go to plan, carry out a crevasse rescue....
4
Mont Blanc, 4808m. The 3 Monts Route
The route as described here starts from the Aiguille du Midi lift. The vast majority of people will make a very short approach day, and spend the night in the Cosmiques Hut, leaving after a 1am breakfast, in order to complete the descent before it gets dangerous....
5
Approach to the Goûter Hut
Although this is only the access day for Mont Blanc it is still a big day with significant height gain. Ideally take the first lifts to Nid d’Aigle, arriving at 9....
6
Mont Blanc, 4808m. Goûter Route.
With an extremely early start leave the hut and go almost horizontally with amazing views of the lights in the valley far below, over your R shoulder. Take care to have plenty of rope between you and if you are only a pair then consider knots in the rope, as it is extremely hard to hold a fall into a crevasse as just a rope of two....
7
Mont Blanc, 4808m. Pope Route from Gonella Hut.
With an extremely early start leave the hut and traverse pretty much horizontally on quite steep snow slopes to gain the Glacier du Dôme. Follow this, meandering to one side and the other, taking the least crevassed route....
8
Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse
This is a lovely mixed route, which is relatively straightforward early season when it is snow covered. Loose rock, the descent gully and the bergschrund can be problematic later in the season....
9
Tour Ronde, 3792m. Normal Route (E Face)
This is an early season route, which becomes both icy and dangerous from rockfall from mid-season onwards. For this reason, it may be impractical from mid-July, unless it is a particularly snowy summer (i....
10
Mont Blanc du Tacul, 4248m. Normal Route
This is a magnificent summit, somewhat dwarfed by its bigger neighbours, but nonetheless has some fantastic routes, completely independent of other mountains. The ordinary route to the summit is a short diversion from the 3 Monts Route up Mont Blanc....
11
Aiguille de Moine, 3412m. S Face
From the hut backtrack along the path you came up on yesterday a short distance, then follow the cairned climber’s path to the vestigial Moine Glacier, (more of a snow patch) heading to the top of it....
12
Approach to Durier Hut
From Gruvaz at 1120m follow the well marked obvious 4WD track to the Chalets de Miages at 1559m. Follow the path heading SE from there, heading to the L in ascent of the stream marked on the map as le Grand Pont, briefly heading SW at about 1730m, where it steepens, then SE and E again until about 2130m, where the path heads N....
13
Aiguille Verte, 4122m. Whymper Couloir
The Whymper Couloir, first climbed by in 1865 by Edward Whymper and Christian Almer, is the most commonly ascended route up the Aiguille Verte. Despite the (relatively) modest difficulty of AD+, it is nonetheless a serious undertaking requiring solid snow and ice climbing skills....
14
Midi - Plan Traverse
This is an easy accessed, low grade alpine route but much of it is staggeringly exposed so don't underestimate it and be prepared for an exciting day!
Begin by descending the famous snow arête east of the Aiguille du Midi and follow it as it mellows and widens to a large flat area atop the Aiguille du Midi north face....
15
Conscrits Hut to the Durier Hut via the Dômes de Miage
The second day of the Mont Blanc Royal Traverse, and a fabulous mountaineering adventure, this is as good as it gets for the mid-grade alpinist. Start the day at the Conscrits hut, which lies in a fantastic high-mountain setting....
16
Royal Traverse- Aiguille du Bionnassay, Dôme du Goûter and Mont Blanc
Be sure you are confident of conditions as this traverse has a reputation for cornices and avalanche danger. A high level of fitness and acclimatisation are essential as well as a perfect forecast....
17
Aiguille d'Entrèves traverse
From the top of the lift follow the obvious track in the snow that heads horizontally to the N. This is a common start to numerous different routes. Descend a short steep slope under the Aiguille de Toule, then a long slow journey up to Col d'Entrèves....
18
Traverse of Aiguille de Toule, 3534m, W to E.
This rapidly accessed summit can most simply and easily be done as an out and back trip, up the E ridge. Described here though is the more aesthetic traverse of the peak....
19
Aiguille du Midi, 3842m. Cosmiques Arête
This route is fantastic but very popular. It can be done as a half day route by very quick teams but there can be queues, so best to allow a day....
20
Aiguille de Toule, N Face
This is a popular short N Face that is usually in good condition in the spring and early summer. Late summer and autumn may bring conditions back in, but it is often not good in August....
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