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Day 19 – Skull Scares & Snips in Serbia

What a ride! Glorious sunshine, smooth roads, and scenery that makes you want to belt out a Balkan ballad. But let’s talk about that first stop: Skull Tower. Yes, Skull. Tower. Who signed off on that? Just 3.5 km in, and boom—hundreds of real human skulls staring at you like you’re late for your own execution. I came for a ride, not a horror movie audition! I practically sprint-cycled away from it. If I wake up tonight dreaming I’m being chased by a skull army on bikes, I’m blaming Serbia.

Luckily, salvation came at Kafana Špaj, where I drowned my lingering terror in Serbian coffee and Tri Leće cake (which, by the way, is basically cake soaked in ALL the milks). Highly recommend it—mostly as emotional support dessert after being spiritually attacked by bones.

Made it to Pirot in one piece (barely), and decided I needed a bit of a transformation after my near-death Gothic tourism experience. Got a haircut for €5.00. Yes, FIVE EUROS. The barber was a wizard and the whole thing took less time than it did for me to recover from the Skull Tower trauma. I now look 10% less like a sweaty cyclist and 20% more like a Serbian pop star.

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Erwin Wong (RCC)

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