Pacific Pipe climbing

Sierra and The Folk

The Studio climbing

The Studio commute

The Neighborhood

The combination of a limited number of available routes to climb at The Studio combined with the Holiday period with everyone on vacation suggested gym-users might be crowding around a limited number of routes.  As a result of that thought, Frank suggested we make another field trip, this time to Pacific Pipe in Oakland.

Frank and Stella only two weeks ago visited Pacific Pipe, but since the gym is huge, we expected to find a plenty new material to keep us busy until we were too tired to continue.

Today I drove.  The commute was perhaps slightly less congested than on a usual weekday.  We found the parking lot full, but there were a few curb-side spots available nearby.

After spending about five minutes re-learning how to use the automated combination locks on the lockers I started my stair-master warmup.

The gym was cold, maybe not quite as cold as outdoors, but not much warmer!  The only warm spots were in the shower areas, the front entrance desk, and in the "lounge" areas that were under some heat lamps.  The cold gym didn't seem to bother most of the younger crowd who were largely in short sleeves, and some in short pants, too.  I spent the entire day in long sleeves top and bottom, and wore a thick head cap while belaying and video-ing, and I still felt cold.  Cold would be the theme of the day.

Today Frank started our rotation, Stella climbed second, and I third.

Climb 1 - Purple 5.9 (F): This somewhat interesting route on the extreme right side of Groto Right wall featured one sharp but shallow overhang near the bottom, then a mostly straightforward climb to the top on jugs, volumes, and grooved pinches.  Not wanting to expend too much energy on this "warm-up" route I climbed and down-climbed only once.

Climb 2 - Pink 5.10a (F): This interesting route stands on the far left side of the Grotto Left wall.  The wall here features a continuous slight overhang, and the holds while large were directional in a few spots, requiring a little more care with technique and body placement.  The hardest part of the climb was the starting moves.  For me getting my left leg past the large triangular volume that sticks out from the wall at waist level was the hardest move.

Climb 3 - Yellow 5.10b (F): This muscly route at the center of the Abominabowl wall featured a significant overhang near the bottom, followed by a vertical to overhung headwall.  For me the hardest part was heaving myself up the lower overhang, but the upper headwall also was tiring.  It was a route on which one needs to keep moving to avoid fatiguing.  The route itself was not too difficult to read, but it was a physical challenge for me.  I should probably work more on my general weakness with overhung climbs.

Climb 4 - Green 5.10c (F): Stella had just climbed this route featuring large holds, and it looked like a route I might actually enjoy.  I did enjoy it more than the prior 5.10b, but my climbing wasn't as clean as I would have liked with my left foot slipping twice.  But, with the nice large hand holds, I knew I had a secure grip, so wasn't worried about falling off.  Near the top the route features a nice, wide stemming move to avoid an obvious barn-door.

Climb 5 - Purple 5.10c (F): This interesting route on the Chamber Left wall in the obtuse overhung dihedral was recommended to me by Frank.  The route is spread out across a wide dihedral, featuring many jugs, pinches, and other large hand holds.  the hardest move might be the opening to get started, but after giving it some thought I managed it without too much trouble.  Harder for me was the second-to-last move where after a considerable pause and left-hand shake-out I had to reach far with my right for a small edge while on a slight overhang and no good spot for my left foot.  My fingers found their mark, and then the bump to the top hold, that I initially caught with one knuckle before getting a more secure grip on it.

The middle part of the climb being dihedral allowed me time to think of each move without tiring while on the wall.  As long as my center of gravity remained between the imaginary line connecting my feet and the wall, it was easy to pause and think before making the next move.

In spite of the sheer quantity of holds on this route, I still found myself smearing twice on the bare wall, once when transitioning from the lower dihedral to the upper dihedral, and again when making my crux move near the top.

At the crux move my left foot wanted to use a nice level orange pinch, but I had to smear without touching that tempting pinch.

I was pleased to flash this route, the highlight of my day.

Climb 6 - Green 5.10b (F): Frank wanted me to try one of the 5.10d routes he thought I'd enjoy, but by now I was quite tired.  Stella had already skipped her sixth climb, and Frank was done for the day, too.  So, this would be my last.  I considered it but in my state I thought the likelihood of success was slim, and if I came off half-way up, I wouldn't have anything left to try an easier "consolation" route, so I preempted that possibility and just climbed a "consolation" route.

This route set on the transition between Iceberg Left and Slip 'n' Slide walls looked interesting if not too difficult. The bottom half of the route is the hardest.  The holds are irregular, some nice and large, others awkward shaped volumes or edges, and yet others small jugs.  The wall here is slightly overhung.

As I transitioned from the lower overhung part to the headwall while holding only a small jug with my right hand, my left on a foot peg to prevent a barn-door, I lost both feet momentarily, lending some legitimacy to the "Slip 'n' Slide" naming of the wall.  But, I quickly recovered and advanced.

As is typical of gym climbs, the crux moves are often at or near the bottom of a route.  (Competition routes feature crux moves at or near the top, so that climber skill can be more accurately assessed.)  Once I got myself onto the headwall I made steady progress to the top hold, aided by a nice long diagonal pinch that served as a comfortable platform for my feet as I grabbed the top hold.

I was physically exhausted after only six climbs.  Usually we manage seven to nine on our field trip days, so this was a first.  Maybe the routes were more challenging than we expected, or maybe the cold was getting to us.  Probably both of these.  In any case, we enjoyed our outing, even thought it was a long day.

Today our one-hour drive home was easier than it was three weeks ago when I drove us home from Berkeley via Dublin in stop-and-go traffic due to heavier traffic and accidents on I-880.  After leaving home at 0900 in the morning, I arrived home at 1700.

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Bill Bushnell

Pacific Pipe climbing

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Pacific Pipe climbing

Sierra and The Folk

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The Neighborhood

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