Monsy Masters, Peppy

SF55 Charlie #33

Zwift - Quatch Quest in Watopia

Frequency, Endorphin Speed

Easy Swim

The family was taken to the site this morning by the two first responders that arrived after the call. Very emotional for all of them. I went up this afternoon with GPS coordinates and documented what I saw. I added quotes to the pics to give information to friends that are interested. My kids have been asking me Qs so this helps them understand what happened. I made a video at the exit point for the Freeway route but didn't upload here.
ADDED 11/13/20 from local climber:
I went up the 2nd this morning, and on my hike up to the base I realized that the conditions today were probably pretty similar to what Andy encountered on Oct. 30. In other words, it's a few days after a snowstorm, and there is still a significant amount of snow and ice up in the Flatirons. With that in mind, I was prepared to bail if I got to the base and saw unfavorable conditions.

At the base of the 2nd, my approach shoes were wet from snow on the hike, but the face itself looked 99% good. There was ice in a few pockets here and there, but only low on the route and easily avoidable from what I could see. So, I wiped off my shoes and started up.

The first 100 feet were in the shade (the "crux" of the climb, imo), and I had to carefully step around a few icy pockets, but after getting into the sun above, it was just a normal outing on the 2nd. The rock was warm and dry. Michael Reese (local hotshot Flatiron speed climber) started a couple minutes after me and quickly caught and passed me.

I took my time, but soon arrived at the "Step Around." This is the first time the normal Freeway Route hits the North Ridge of the Second Flatiron (sorry if I'm being overly descriptive -- I'm not sure how familiar you are with the route). There is a small foothold that reminds me of a gas pedal in a car. It can be an awkward move for new climbers, and I've seen many get stuck here and/or freak out. The exposure is suddenly ramped up to an 8 or 9 after being at a 4 or 5 for most of the route. There aren't any "jugs" to grab with your hands, and if you put your right foot on the gas pedal, which seems like the most obvious way to do it, it makes the move even more awkward. It's easier to step on the pedal with your left foot, in my opinion. After stepping on the pedal, you move your body around the ridgeline and step down and to your left to a good ledge.

Here's the thing: today (and I assume on October 30th) the gas pedal was about 80% iced up. Maybe there was even more ice in that spot when Andy was last there. I took several photos of this spot and attached them here for you. I've circled the gas pedal in each photo for reference.

I was able to carefully place my foot on the dry part of the rock and do the move securely, but you can bet I was even more cautious than usual. If my foot had slipped, it would have been extremely difficult to stop myself from falling. And if I fell here, I would fall about 30-40 feet to the steep ground below. Since the ground there is itself quite steep, I would expect to continue tumbling quite a ways further down from my initial impact, ending up somewhere below, on or near the 1st/2nd Flatiron trail.

After finishing the route, I took a few more photos on my way down the trail, and found the exact site where Andy's body was found, based on your photos. Everything seemed very consistent with the theory that Andy slipped at the Step Around spot. In fact, in my own mind I feel 95% sure that's where he fell.
Oh, one more thing...from your accident analysis it sounds like your theory may be that Andy got past the Step Around, and then had to choose between the normal route, which you guessed was shady/icy/snowy, or going a different way to avoid the ice/snow on the normal route.

But, what I found today was that the normal route above the Step Around was completely dry and in the sun. I don't think there would have been any reason for a climber to go a different way in those conditions. And, as I mentioned, I don't think Andy made it past the Step Around move.

I attached one more photo of the snow conditions between the 1st and 2nd Flatirons. This is from just below the Step Around, looking down the slope where I believe AC slid/tumbled.

Top Sports

Gordo Byrn

Andy accident investigation

25 Photos

3 Comments

Sign up to view more activities from Gordo Byrn

Monsy Masters, Peppy

SF55 Charlie #33

Zwift - Quatch Quest in Watopia

Frequency, Endorphin Speed

Easy Swim

Want to see more?

The #1 app for runners and cyclists

Sign Up for Free. Track your progress and reach goals. Join 100 million active people on Strava.

See More from Gordo